you need a more fluid style grease that will constantly work in the joint and move around. Wax based greases will go higher temps, but typically dont lubricate as well, they more or less stay where you put them and are for contact points, not high speed velocity joints. if you run the CV hot enough and long enough, the heat of the CV will slightly melt the boot under the clamp, and when coupled with the pressure from the expanding boot and pressure built up from the off-gassing of the grease, the boot blows off the CV EVERY single petroleum based grease on the market starts off-gassing around 200-220 degrees, when you get a cv running those kinda temps, the grease gets hot and starts smoking or producing a gas, and this will cause the boot to swell since its a sealed system with no breather. I have done tons of experiments on grease, using lasers, infrared thermometers, bunsen burners, checking viscosity at certain temps, watching the grease get hot and off gas, putting grease at its drop point, and melting point, and checking viscosity afterwards. Over time, the grease being subjected to high temps, causes the grease to break down, and stop lubricating the joint, so the joint runs dry and hot and melts the boot off the joint. Initially in low mileage applications, if you see this, the joint has a burr, an imperfection, too tight of tolerances, too much friction, and its building up heat in the joint which melts the boot off the joint once it gets like this, the grease is slung to the outside of the joint, fills the boot, and then the CV is dry with no lubrication, no viscosity in the grease, so now the joint is dry and runs hotter than hell, which causes the CV to get hot, the boot to melt, and the boot to build up pressure, and then it slips the boot off the joint. once you subject grease to its off gassing point over and over, the grease will lose its viscosity and stop being grease, and be more like melted lipstick. also, high mileage guys who run at high speeds, cooking the grease over and over getting it above 200degrees will cause the grease to lose its viscosity. friction makes heat, which causes the boot to expand, and when the CV is hot, and the pressure builds up from the grease off gassing, the boot will pull off the CV. some go as far as assembling the joint with no boot, chucking it up in a lathe and filling the joint with super find lapping compound, running the joint in the lathe while holding the bar, and cycling the bar up and down and around as the lathe spins, this will allow the lapping compound to 'self clearance' any tight areas that will cause friction. yes these can be pulled apart and micropolished, pretty much all of the desert racers do this to their CVs, send them off and have them surfaced and polished.

I just wanted to pass along some 'for funsies' information that might save you some money in the future, or at a minimum now you know exactly what clamps to look for for your own DIY stuff.The reason you see some issues, and others dont, is because friction in the joint.

They are also less expensive, and there is no reason to pass along excess cost to you for a part that provides no real benefit. The liner is a solid band that overlaps the holes punched into the band of the clamp, and eliminates the possibility of damage to the silicone from 'oozing through.' This gives you the benefit of protection that the t-bolt clamps offer, but without the inconsistent clamping force around the circumference that t-bolt clamps inherently have. So we do supply kits (like Blingstorm mentioned, thanks again) with Breeze Liner worm gear clamps. With that said we like to avoid any sort of failure point, however small, with our worm gear clamps. However, it usually isn't an issue, causing damage to the coupler and a possible failure. Well there is no real arguing with that, as it will. The second argument people usually make is that the worm gear clamps will cause the silicone to 'ooze through' the holes in the band of the clamp. However, if you're stripping out bands you're going WAY too tight. OR if you are a habitual-clamp-over-tightener already it will help eliminate the possibility of striping out the band of a worm gear clamp. The only thing this is going to help you do is over-tighten your clamps.

While this is almost always correct, it certainly offers nothing to a silicone to bead rolled tube connection. The number one thing people usually discuss is that t-bolt clamps can tighten much more than a worm gear clamp. It's an interesting discussion that you're going to read over and over and over again. Click to expand.I just wanted to chime in here because you very often see the discussion about worm gear clamps 'being bad' and how t-bolt clamps are far superior.

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